Delhi as a capital hits the century mark this year. Through wars and riots, pomp and show, the history of Delhi is as colourful as it is interesting. Let us celebrate this unique and historical city.

On the banks of the Yamuna is the city of Delhi. This year it celebrates its centenary as a nation's capital. Delhi was a major political, cultural as well as commercial city on the trade route between northwest India and the Gangetic plain, after the rise of the Delhi Sultanates. It is a city steeped in history and some of the monuments are still there today. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Calcutta was the capital. It was in 1911 that King George V announced that the capital would be shifted back to Delhi. This is a multicultural, cosmopolitan metropolis and people from all over the country have migrated to it and made it their home.

Some famous personalities
Khushwant Singh is one of the best-known Indian writers. Singh has also written extensively about Delhi.

M.F. Hussain is one of India's most famous painters. Also a filmmaker, In 1967 he made his first film, ‘Through the Eyes of a Painter”. Shown at the Berlin Festival, the movie won a Golden Bear.

Pervez Musharraf, the former President of President, was born in Delhi

Shah Rukh Khan, one of Bollywood's leading actors, was born in Delhi and has a Masters Degree in Mass Communication from Jamia Milia Islamia, Delhi.

Pandit Ravi Shankar, the legendary sitarist and composer is India's venerated musical icon and is known for his pioneering work in introducing Indian classical music to the West.

On December 12, 1911, the capital of colonised India was shifted from Calcutta to Delhi, re-establishing the city as the political centre for the British Empire in the country. This month, Delhi completes its centenary year as the capital of modern day India.

The city had been a capital before, according to references dating back to 1450 B.C. Between 12th and 19th century A.D., Delhi served as the capital for many rulers. The original seven cities that came together to form what we know as Delhi today were Siri, Tughlakabad, Jahanapanah, Ferozabad, Dinpanah, Shergarh and Shahajahanabad. The eighth city, the ‘new' Delhi that never really got another name, was built by the British.

Clearly, the city was a choice capital, and for reasons that are obvious even now. The two characteristic features of the city, the Delhi Ridge and the Yamuna, gave it natural sustenance and protection. Flanked by these two geographical features, Delhi was the obvious choice for ambitious rulers.

Variety and diversity
Before New Delhi, the core of the city lay in the northern parts: Chandni Chowk, Kashmere Gate and Civil Lines flourishing with trade and commerce. The small villages and hamlets in the southern part of the city had a motley group of communities living in them: Jats, Brahmins, Christians, Muslims and Gujjars. They reared animals, engaged in agriculture and worked as labourers in Shahjahanabad, the city established by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. Eventually these villages gave way to symmetrical, planned neighbourhoods and architectural marvels like the Secretariat and the Parliament, landmarks that define a certain face of New Delhi.

The nation's capital is perhaps the best example of the variety and diversity of the country, a perfect salad bowl that accepts people of all religions, regions and groups. With no single citizen a true son of Delhi, the city has become home for many migrants in search of livelihood from all over the country.

The last 100 years have seen Delhi grow and change. The recent Commonwealth Games even gave the city a rapid makeover.

The nation's capital has indeed come a long way, and perhaps the greatest change has been in the population. Bursting at the seams, a city initially intended for around 70,000 people is currently the home of over 16 million citizens, an ever increasing number.

The river, which was the source of life and sustenance, has begun to closely resemble a drain.

The pressure on the depleting resources of the city is ever growing and poses serious ecological crises. Perhaps, as we celebrate the centenary year of a great city, it is time to remember and preserve what made it great in the first place.

Places to look out for
Connaught Place was named after the Duke of Connaught, a member of the British royal family. A sprawling circular market, it was once the largest of its kind in India. The British believed that a market in the shape of a horseshoe would prove lucky. ‘CP' continues to be Delhi's premier shopping destination 65 years after of its birth.

Jama Masjid in Delhi is the biggest mosque in India. Constructed by Shah Jahan in 1650, it took six years to complete. The mosque stands on a rocky elevation and is constructed in sandstone and white marble and can be entered from both North and the South Gates. The eastern gateway is supposed to remain open in Friday and was used by the emperor himself.

National Museum is rightly called the cultural gateway into India. Set up on August 15, 1949, the museum is a treasure house of antiques and historical memorabilia ranging from sculpture through carving, paintings, jewellery and manuscripts to arts and crafts The museum now boasts of over 2,00,000 works of exquisite art, both of Indian and foreign origin, covering a time span of more than 5,000 years.

Chandni Chowk, a main marketplace in Delhi, is the city's living legacy of Shahjahanabad. Created by Shah Jahan, the fascinating market was planned, as legend has it, so that his daughter could shop for all that she wanted. The market was divided by canals. The canals are now closed, but Chandni Chowk remains Asia's largest wholesale market.

Darya Ganj is another exciting shopping centre, popular for its Sunday Book Market. The pavements of Darya Ganj become shopping stalls for book sellers every Sunday. The market stretches for almost two kilometres. Books on virtually every topic are available at throwaway prices.

The Hindu, 1st February 2011

Could you capture the spirit and essence of your city? Have you ever thought of looking past the concrete jungles and motor fumes that are so much a part of your everyday life? Or given a thought to the rich cultural heritage that your city, no matter where in India you are, must have?

These five children have done that — and a bit more!

Srishti Soni, a student at DPS Varanasi, was always conscious of the heritage of her city and the patronage it thus enjoys. But what this Class IX student did not realise were the pros that she, as a citizen, could have. For instance, the lure and mystery of the ghats of Varanasi got her a place in the second edition of My City, My History. An initiative of Fox History and Entertainment channel in alliance with the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), this programme encouraged school children to discover historical treasures in their respective cities, which in turn could help them to learn a lot more about the streets they walked on every day.

In retrospect, this programme was perhaps a reason for kids to look inside their cities and take a peek at the people and lifestyles that inhabit them.

And so, if Srishti found the ghats of Varanasi alluring, Raksha Rai of Deorali Girls Senior Secondary School, Sikkim, was spellbound by Sakewa — a traditional dance form in her area. Ayush Ganapathy from the Coorg Public School, Kodag, Karnataka, on the other hand, found his muse in his own family — the warrior clan of Puliyanda.

Ayush is quick to explain, “I am really Puliyanda Ayush Ganapathy.” Sharing a glimpse of his connections to the Nalnad Palace, this youngster goes on to proudly clarify, “Some believe that the fierce features and attitude of our ancestors gave them the name Puliyanda. As the Kongalva rulers of Kerala said in Malayalam — ‘they (the Puliyandas) have a tiger’s build and are equally courageous!’”

My City, My History reached out to over 10 lakh children in over 1,000 schools (aged bet-ween 11-15 and in Classes VI-IX) from all 28 states in India.

The final five winners, came from Auranga-bad, Kochi, Kodag, Sikkim and Varanasi, and were the lucky ones to bag the opportunity of filming their own stories. These films will now be aired on the Fox History and Entertainment channel in March. And to top it all, since the film-makers are novices, the channel will get these kids guidance from a professional film-maker who will steer them through the whole process!

For Khan Tauseef Ahmed of Class IX, Little Flower High School, Aurangabad, participation in the programme goes beyond getting a trophy and national recognition. “Before the contest, I had a near-zero interest in history as a subject. But, this victory at the contest has made me interested in history and geography. If my area is home to so many interesting and unheard of historic treasures and legends, think about what the myriad other places scattered all over India must hold!” he says excitedly.

Rohini Mohan of Delta Study School, Kochi, has a fairly similar view. “I think this contest also created a sense of belonging in all of us. In my city, a major percentage of people have come from other places, and so fail to call Kochi ‘their city’. Being able to be a part of this show has certainly empowered me to help these people realise what they are missing out on,” she says happily.

Today, these kids know where their cities stand in their hearts. How about you?

Asian Age, 1st February 2011

Bangalore saw a lot of development during the time of Sir Mark Cubbon, the longest serving commissioner of the then Mysore State. The Raj Bhavan that we know today is the legacy of Sir Cubbon, who built the grand residence on land he bought with his own funds, discovers Poornima Dasharathi

Cubbon Park is known to every visitor and resident of Bangalore. Once popular for the toy train rides or concerts in its band stand, it is still a haven for people who want a breath of fresh air in an otherwise fast-polluting traffic-snarled metro. Officially called Chamarajendra Park, it’s Cubbon Park for the common man.

But who was Cubbon and why is the park named after him? A quick search on the Internet will tell you that Sir Mark Cubbon was the longest serving commissioner of Mysore State, when it was controlled by the British from 1831 to 1881. In 1881, power was transferred back to the Wodeyars i.e., when Maharaja Chamarajendra Wodeyar came of age. This historic act was called the Rendition.

Subsidiary treaty in 1799
However, if one has to discover more about Sir Cubbon, one has to visualise Mysore Kingdom post Tipu’s demise. Close your eyes and imagine an era of Bangalore when there was no Cubbon Park or High Court or the Vidhana Soudha building. Bangalore was a small town consisting of the pete area surrounded by a fort; beyond the settlement were hills and troughs, barren land. The seats of power were Srirangapatnam and Mysore.

In 1799, Lord Wellesley decided that the administration of the region would be bestowed on the Wodeyars instead of Tipu’s sons, keeping in mind the relationship between the French and Tipu. This decision was taken in spite of stiff resistance from the likes of Sir Thomas Munro who wanted to divide the region between the British and the Nizam of Carnatic.

Krishna Raja Wodeyar III, a minor then, was coronated as the king of the entire region; however the British Government appointed a Resident in the court of Mysore. The Mysore that was won back from Tipu was a much bigger and unified kingdom and the control of the region was given to the Wodeyars. So there still were divided loyalties and not all Palegars were loyal to the king. Added to this was the stringent administration of Dewan Purnaiah. There was also no handholding of the young king in the region’s governance; the Resident took his orders from the neighbouring Madras Presidency and did not help or advise the king in the affairs of the region.

In August 1830, there was an uprising of some Palegars, of Nagar and Tarikere. Though the Maharaja was loyal to the British and lent his troops to quell the rebellion, it reached huge proportions. Fears of losing control of the region and added pressure from the Madras Governor, forced the then Governor General, Lord Bentinck, to take the drastic step of transferring governance from the Maharaja to a British Commission that was directly under the Governor General.

In a letter to the Maharaja, the main reasons stated were non payment of subsidies according to the Treaty of 1799, increasing debts and maladministration. Though he authored this letter to the king, he also set up an enquiry committee whose findings cleared the unfortunate king’s reputation and administration. Lord Bentinck then sympathised with the young ruler and supported his cause in England. However for the next 50 years, Mysore was ruled by the British. In 1831, the administration was handed over to two British Officers Colonel Briggs and C M Lushington, Senior and Junior Commissioners to Mysore region. Lushington brought the official establishment to Bangalore. Suddenly Bangalore gained importance. Tipu’s palace in the city became the seat of administration. As the uprising died and peace was restored, the city witnessed growth.

Sir Cubbon as sole commissioner
However, three years later, due to difference of opinion between the two commissioners, the role was unified and the role of a sole Commissioner was created. The role of the resident was also abolished. The Commissioner was literally the ruler of Mysore kingdom. The responsibility fell on Sir Mark Cubbon. He immediately took to the task of unifying the region. The Palegars were subdued and as a part of rehabilitation, a leading member of each of their territory was compelled to stay in Bangalore. To ease administration, the foujdaries were dissolved and the State was divided into four divisions. Prompt salaries and pension schemes were introduced to win the loyalties of government servants. As part of the process, an annual administration report was commenced in 1856-57.

Kannada and Marathi were made the official languages to simplify the communication.

During his tenure, Bangalore as a city was improved vastly. Roads were constructed connecting Bangalore to all major taluks. The first railway line between Bangalore and Jolarpet was laid. Commerce flourished. Communication improved through laying of telegraph lines. During his tenure of 26 years, the State’s revenue rose to Rs 93 lakh.

He purchased a plot of land, quite away from the fort and built a bungalow with his own funds. This was later purchased by Sir Bowring, his successor, for the Government and is today known as Raj Bhavan. Almost a hundred years later, Mirza Ismail, the eminent Dewan of Mysore, recalls the size of Bangalore in 1800s and its land value. He says – “even in Ulsoor road where my grandfather (Aga Ali Askar) lived land was so little valued that Sir Mark Cubbon bade him take as much as he wished”!

Equation with the Maharaja
He was one of the few who understood the political relations among Indian kingdoms. Though he was initially against the transfer of reign to the Maharaja, his relations with the king improved once the office of Resident was abolished. In his many letters to the Governor General, he had highly praised the king for his co-operation and support during the uprising in 1830 and also for the tranquillity of the region during the 1857 mutiny.

When the order to transfer the Mysore administration from Governor General to the Governor of Madras was issued, Cubbon refused to give his sanction to such an unwise policy. He had resigned from his post as a protest. He wrote, “The late order is regarded as a great breach of public faith and as the first step towards the final extinction of Mysore and consequently tending to produce the most fatal of all results the destruction of all confidence in the sincerity of the Queen’s proclamation.” The order was withdrawn by Lord Canning and he continued for one more year.

Though Cubbon was a British officer, he had never been to England. In 1861, because of poor health, Cubbon had to leave for England abruptly without even a visit to the Maharaja with whom he had developed a good friendship for 26 years.

This fact is stated in a letter by the King – “the sensation it produced in me was inexpressibly distressing and painful...more so as it conveyed the intimation that your departure from the country was to be without a personal interview with me, and without the last interchange of a friendly farewell.”

However he died during the voyage at Suez on April 23, 1861. His mortal remains were carried to the England by his friend Dr Campbell and laid to rest there. A notice that appeared in the Indian Statesman called him the “last of the old school of statesman”.

It described him as a very generous person who regarded all the young officers stationed at Bangalore as members of his family. One anecdote relates to an instance where a young officer had a debt of four hundred rupees; Sir Mark Cubbon quietly pressed in his hand and said, “There I shall not ask you to return the money to me but when you are an old man be sure you help a young fellow in the same way.” The successor to Mark Cubbon was another very worthy person – Lord Bowring. It is to him we should credit the creation and naming of the park which we now know as Cubbon Park and the statue in front of the present High Court building...

Deccan Herald, 1st February 2011

Bagalkot was ruled by several dynasties, from the Rashtrakutas and Kalachuryas to the Chalukyas and later, the Vijayanagar and Bahmani rulers. The district is a heady mix of art, architecture and industry. Bagalkot became the 23rd district of the State on the occasion of the golden jubilee of India’s Independence.

The land of the Chalukyas, home to art and architecture, and literary greats and poets such as Ranna, the land where thinker and social reformer Basavanna attained samadhi, that’s Bagalkot district for you.

Once part of Bijapur district, Bagalkot spells abundant jaggery, sugar, cement and granite. And also a certain richness of heart when its people weighed former prime minister and slain leader Indira Gandhi against gold, and dedicated the value of the metal to the nation even in time of a drought.

After the completion of the Almatti dam, the district is known for its problems associated with the dam, that of submergence of land, and its consequences. But who can forget the rich history of the land?

That it was the cradle of art and architecture cannot be disputed. Heritage sites such as the temple complex in Pattadakal, Mahakoota known as Dakshina Kashi and Badami’s cave temples are among the must-visit places in the district.

The region is also witness to the bravery of the Halagali Bedas, who fought the British and triggered the spirit of Independence among its people, and the courage of Sindhura Lakshmana, who fought against the greed of the zamindars.

The other associations one can make with this district are its famed Ilkal sarees, the sweetness of Mahalingapur jaggery and sugar, the handlooms of Rabkavi-Banahatti, the Mudhol hound, the wealth of natural resources, its pink granite, the cement industry and the Chikkapadasalagi barrage constructed by farmers with their own hands.

Thanks to the Upper Krishna project, a major part of Bagalkot town has been submerged. A new city has been built for those affected by the project. The new city is among the biggest rehabilitation projects in the country.

Way back on July 2, 1963, the then AICC president and late prime minister Indira Gandhi was weighed against gold in a ‘Tulabhara’ programme.

The 1,18,553 tholas of gold accumulated was dedicated to the nation. On the education front, the district is well-known for the Basaveshwara Veerashaiva Vidyavardhaka Sangha which is all set to turn a hundred. On the spiritual front, the district is well-known for its Sharana philosophy and is home to several Peethas or religious seats.

Tracing the region’s antiquity
Mythology has it that Bagalkot was the town where men from the court of Ravana, the villain of the epic, Ramayana lived. In fact, mythology has it that this town had people who were part of the music troupes in the ten-headed demon’s court.

It is said that the name of the town is derived from ‘Bangadikot’ because Bijapur's Adil Shahi ruler paid the price of his daughter's bangles (bangadi) for this town.

The land has seen several dynasties from the Rashtrakutas and Kalachuryas to the Vijayanagar and Bahmani rule.

The district which was ruled by the Adilshahis and Peshwas later went into the hands of the British, by 1818. Jamakhandi and Mudhol were being ruled by Patwardhans and Ghorpades. In some places of the region, the Desais had taken control.

It is interesting to note that during the reorganisation of princely states, the Jamakhandi region was among the first of 600 states to join the Indian republic.

Bagalkot became the 23rd district of the state on the occasion of the golden jubilee of India's Independence. The new district comprises Badami, Hungund, Bagalkot, Bilagi, Mudhol and Jamakhandi taluks. The district shares its boundaries with districts of Bijapur to the north, Gadag to the south, Raichur and Koppal to the east and Belgaum to the west.

Agriculture and textile are the major occupations of the people of the district.

Deccan Herald, 1st February 2011

contribution of Vijayanagar kings to Indian architecture, art and sculpture is immense. In fact, their school of art is popularly known as Vijayanagar style.

The glory of the Vijayanagar empire is best reflected in the art and architecture of Hampi, the capital of the empire. In fact, Hampi is known as an open-air museum.

Several relief works and paintings in the caves in the region are still intact. Also, the exquisite carvings and sculptures in the Vijayanagar style, an amalgamation of various schools of art and architecture, including that of Hoysalas and Chalukyas have all stood the test of time.

Enough work has gone into the maintenance of relief paintings and sculptures.

In order to retain their lustre for a long time, it is important that new technologies are brought in. The Department of Archaeology has been working towards this.

One can see Vijayanagar-style paintings in places such as Lepakshi, Somapalli, Hampi and Hucchappaiyyana Math near Anegundi even today.

In the famed Virupaksha temple constructed in Hampi in 1509-10, you can still see the paintings depicting the coronation of Vijayanagar king Krishnadeva Raya on the ceilings. Also, there are several paintings that depict scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana including Seetha Swayamwavar, Seetha Kalyana Mahotsava, Manmatha-Vijaya etc.

Still, some of the colours have faded, including black, red and green, though one can see some tinges here and there. Also, some of the strong lines on the paintings have faded. Chances are some of them might have also been corrected over centuries. History has it that when Chatrapathi Shivaji visited Hampi, he is said to have expressed anguish over the ruins.

In fact, it is said that he indicated to the then Anegundi princes to make arrangements to ensure that regular prayers were offered at the Virupaksha temple. Later, even Chitradurga'’ Bharamanna Nayak is said to have visited Hampi.

It is possible that the fading paintings might have been corrected during such visits by local artisans.

In more recent times, as recent as 2007-08, a Tamil Nadu organisation conducted a sandblasting operation and cleaned up the Ranga Mantapa (the pavilion) to bring it to its present condition. Centuries of dirt on the sculptures was cleaned up at that point in time. Also, the paintings on the ceilings were also cleaned.

It is important that such steps are taken to ensure the immortality of this great school of art.

Deccan Herald, 1st February 2011

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) will take over the restoration of Jorasanko Thakurbari from Rabindra Bharati University, whose attempts over the past two years at restoring one of the cradles of Bengal renaissance have earned more flak than praise.

The ASI move is part of the Centre’s initiative to introduce a tour circuit touching places associated with Rabindranath Tagore, on the occasion of his 150th birth anniversary.

“The governments of India and Bangladesh feel that the four important sites connected with Tagore - Jorasanko, Santiniketan, and the Kuthibaris at Shilaidah and Shahjadpur (both in Bangladesh) - could be part of a tour package that may be called Rabi Tirtha. The sites in Bangladesh are in good shape and we are trying our best to restore and improve the ones in Santiniketan and Jorasanko,” said Union culture secretary Jawhar Sircar..

The ASI functions under the culture ministry.

The Jorasanko Thakurbari, where Tagore was born and where he died, saw many changes since Nilmoni Tagore, the poet’s ancestor, built a clay-walled house in 1784.

Gautam Sengupta, the director-general of ASI, Delhi, said his agency had met and convinced the vice-chancellor of the university, housed in Thakurbari, and senior government officials about the need for a professional touch in the repair and conservation of the heritage structure.

“Considering the scale of work and the complexities involved, ASI is the only option. Funds for the restoration will come from the National Committee for Commemoration of Tagore’s 150 th Birth Anniversary. ASI, Calcutta, is sending an estimate of expenditure to the culture ministry for approval,” said Sengupta.

To start with, the north and south wings of Ram Bhavan and the Maharshi Bhavan will be restored at an estimated cost of Rs 2.5 crore.

Vice-chancellor Karuna Sindhu Das said the university had done the first stage of restoration — covering parts of Vichitra Bhavan, Ram Bhavan, Maharshi Bhavan and their adjoining enclosures — and now “it’s for the ASI to do the rest”.

He, however, did not allow the “restored parts” to be photographed — “No we cannot allow it. They are dilapidated and can’t be photographed”.

Tapanjyoti Baidya, the ASI superintending archaeologist who will head the Jorasanko project, expressed concern over the university architect’s technique of using the mordern mortar comprising sand, lime and cement to restore the lime-sand-shurki (powdered bricks) structure.

“Such technique is banned in archaeological conservation because the modern mortar and the traditional mix are incompatible. Besides, cement does not let the damp escape and in four-five years, the acidic reaction of the mortar harms the old structure,” said Baidya. “The ASI has the expertise to restore lime-sand-shurki structures. “We have in our team craftsmen who can work in traditional methods.”

ASI feels any attempt at restoration would be foiled unless the problem of waterlogging on the Jorasanko campus was addressed..

The Thakurbari complex is at a lower level than the adjoining areas and gets flooded during the monsoon. Water seeps in through the cracked walls and roofs and the resultant damp eats away at the foundation.

“The problem cannot be solved if we treat the campus as an isolated unit. We’ll have to consult the CPWD and the civic body for a solution. Alternatives like rainwater harvesting or recycling can be considered,” Baidya said.

Restoring Thakurbari can be tricky because there is no building plan to follow. “References in various writings of the Tagores are the only guide…. If a partition had been erected by a later Tagore then that, too, is part of Thakurbari’s history and should not be demolished,” said Baidya.

A visit to the campus revealed walls bearing dark blotches of damp, floors subsided or bulged out and glass panes missing from many grimy windows.

At Ram Bhavan, the walls were lined with termite tracks and corroded iron rods in the ceilings exposed.

One only hopes that the Tagore abode gets a better deal on the poet’s 150th birth anniversary.

The Telegraph, 1st February 2011

Here's some good news for Delhiites staying near protected heritage monuments and waiting for permission to carry out repairs and renovation. Delhi has 174 small and big ASI-protected monuments. Barring very few, the rest of them are located in densely-populated areas. Following an amendment in the ASI Act in March 2010, any kind of construction activity near heritage monuments has literally frozen for those who go by the rulebook.

In a step towards implementation of the amendment, the Ministry of Culture on Tuesday held its first meeting of competent authorities from across the country to discuss modalities related to implementation, including rules and monument-specific heritage byelaws.

A competent authority appointed in each state — Delhi got it in December 2010 — as per the provisions of the Ancient Monuments and Ancient Sites & Remains (Amendment & Validation) Act 2010 will forward eligible proposals for repairs/construction to the National Monument Authority (NMA), which, too, is a mandatory provision under the amendment.

Jawahar Sircar, secretary (Culture) said, "Draft rules for the amended Act have been notified on January 29 and would be finalised after a month..

“The NMA should come up by mid-March."

While the forming of the NMA is being taken care of by the Centre, it was the respective state governments that appointed competent authorities.

The state and the Centre would now be working in tandem for heritage preservation. Deepali Khanna, assistant secretary (F&A) described the meeting as an occasion that has "brought in the states and the Centre together to work in a cohesive manner."

However, this is just the first step and it may take more time for all formalities to be completed..

Even though all competent authorities have been appointed — Delhi got it in December 2010 — and even if NMA gets in shape by March, the monument-specific heritage byelaws and rules for the functioning of authorities would take time.

Without these, no official would be able to give permission for repairs/construction.

Hindustan Times, 2nd February 2011

India and Britain are set to work on digitisation of over 50 handmade pictures of the Taj Mahal dating back to pre-camera days to conserve the art work and exhibit them.

The two countries are also planning to make digital albums of handmade pictures drawn by British servants during the East India Company period. Most of such pictures are now among the collections of various British institutions. “The project will be part of a series of collaborations that are being planned with Britain,” Secretary of Union Culture Ministry Jawhar Sircar said.

There are paintings available, both in India and UK which give picturesque views of India. These paintings were made by Indians prior to the arrival of camera. “There would be about 50-60 handmade pictures on Taj Mahal of different stages. This can be a linear history,” Sircar said, adding that Indian was very keen on digitisation of these pictures in order to “conserve and also exhibit” them in museums here.

The Ministry of Culture has been having “intensive discussions” with its counterpart in Britain on various programmes on conservation of art work and exchange of exhibitions. “One of them relates to the digitisation or making digital album of (East India) Company period paintings. This is a major exposition and familiarisation between the institutions (of India and UK),” he said.

The nearly two-century-old pictures, which dates back to the pre-camera days, would give an interesting insight of Indian art, he said. “These are pictures from the time when company servants used to send back home drawings of artists from India. Most of these pictures are presently with the British Museum and British Library and we are attempting to achieve a common digitisation programme,” he said.

Deccan Herald, 2nd February 2011

Plans are afoot to set up the first museum about Delhi, which gives a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the city. The proposed museum will showcase excavations from Bhorgarh and Mandawali reflecting prehistoric life here; and Harappan pottery, sculptures, arms, armaments, art and craft.

It will also tell the tale of seven cities. The proposal, which has been made by the states department of archaeology, seeks to carve out a Delhi Museum at the historic Dara Shikoh Library building and other heritage buildings in the complex located at Kashmere Gate.

Dara Shikoh Library is located on the earlier premises of Guru Gobind Singh Indraprastha Universitys main campus. It is situated at the extreme end of the large complex. The place is now in the process of being formally handed over to Dr Ambedkar University.If the entire complex made up of heritage buildings is to be turned into a museum complex, then the state government will have to look for an alternative site for Dr Ambedkar University.

The proposal also seeks to give the dilapidated building a facelift. The proposal for the museum is ready and has been discussed with the chief minister. We are now going to start the process of appointing an architect for drawing and chalking out detailed plans for the museum. If all goes well,we may be able to set up the museum by the end of this year, said Keshav Chandra, director, state archaeology department. The proposed museum, which aims at telling the tale of seven cities of Delhi, will be a melange of galleries. The plan includes setting up of a Delhi historic audiovisual gallery; a monument gallery, which will show all important monuments of Delhi;and a prehistoric gallery, showcasing the excavations of Mandawali and Bhorgarh.An art gallery may house miniature paintings, manuscripts and farmans from the Delhi archives. A gallery on Dara Shikohs life and another on crafts exhibiting costumes and jewellery worn by the people here are also in the offing.

The sculpture gallery is going to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here, the state government plans to display sculptures, artefacts and antiquities belonging to ancient and medieval period acquired from the Delhi Maal Khana of Tis Hazari court. Scores of these antiquities are locked up in the library building inside a room. At present, these invaluable items are gathering dust. Most of the sculptures and antiquities are temple collections.

Intachs ongoing exhibition titled Delhi: A Built Heritage is currently being held at Indira Gandhi National Centre for Arts (IGNCA).It is expected to become a part of the permanent exhibits at the proposed museum. The exhibition brings to the fore the vast expanse of Delhis heritage.

The decrepit Dara Shikoh Library building is a combination of Mughal era and colonial architecture. The building has a board at the entrance that announces it to be the headquarters of the Delhi archaeological department. Inside, there is an archaeology museum in a state of neglect. The building is replete with architectural delights like exquisitely carved Mughal arches now concealed under white paint and archways in the rear of the building, which conjure up images of two distinct cultures. The textures used during the Mughal and British period are seen here. The museum, which has been in existence since 1993,has on display remnants like utensils and ornaments unearthed during excavations in Bhorgarh and Mandawali. Under dusty glass panels, one also finds late Harappan pottery, painted grey ware pottery, historic terracotta plaques, and ornaments like earnings and bangles. The library, which dates back to the 17th century, was originally used by Dara Shikoh, the liberal, intellectual eldest son of Mughal emperor Shahjahan. It was later occupied by Ali Mardan Khan, the subedar of Punjab. During the British rule, the complex was the first residency for Sir David Ochterlony. Lord Metcalfe also lived in this building. History tells us that Bishop Heber, the famous traveller, also stayed here. In the post-Independence period, it was occupied by a government school and the Delhi College of Engineering.

In 1988,the department of archaeology, Delhi, was located here. The building was damaged during the revolt of 1857.

The complex has undergone many changes since then. Even now, if one takes a round of the premises, it is easy to imagine the opulence in which the first British resident lived in Delhi.

Times of India, 3rd February 2011

Plans are afoot to set up the first museum about Delhi, which gives a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the city. The proposed museum will showcase excavations from Bhorgarh and Mandawali reflecting prehistoric life here; and Harappan pottery, sculptures, arms, armaments, art and craft.

It will also tell the tale of seven cities. The proposal, which has been made by the states department of archaeology, seeks to carve out a Delhi Museum at the historic Dara Shikoh Library building and other heritage buildings in the complex located at Kashmere Gate.

Dara Shikoh Library is located on the earlier premises of Guru Gobind Singh Indraprastha Universitys main campus. It is situated at the extreme end of the large complex. The place is now in the process of being formally handed over to Dr Ambedkar University.If the entire complex made up of heritage buildings is to be turned into a museum complex, then the state government will have to look for an alternative site for Dr Ambedkar University.

The proposal also seeks to give the dilapidated building a facelift. The proposal for the museum is ready and has been discussed with the chief minister. We are now going to start the process of appointing an architect for drawing and chalking out detailed plans for the museum. If all goes well,we may be able to set up the museum by the end of this year, said Keshav Chandra, director, state archaeology department. The proposed museum, which aims at telling the tale of seven cities of Delhi, will be a melange of galleries. The plan includes setting up of a Delhi historic audiovisual gallery; a monument gallery, which will show all important monuments of Delhi;and a prehistoric gallery, showcasing the excavations of Mandawali and Bhorgarh.An art gallery may house miniature paintings, manuscripts and farmans from the Delhi archives. A gallery on Dara Shikohs life and another on crafts exhibiting costumes and jewellery worn by the people here are also in the offing.

The sculpture gallery is going to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here, the state government plans to display sculptures, artefacts and antiquities belonging to ancient and medieval period acquired from the Delhi Maal Khana of Tis Hazari court. Scores of these antiquities are locked up in the library building inside a room. At present, these invaluable items are gathering dust. Most of the sculptures and antiquities are temple collections.

Intachs ongoing exhibition titled Delhi: A Built Heritage is currently being held at Indira Gandhi National Centre for Arts (IGNCA).It is expected to become a part of the permanent exhibits at the proposed museum. The exhibition brings to the fore the vast expanse of Delhis heritage.

The decrepit Dara Shikoh Library building is a combination of Mughal era and colonial architecture. The building has a board at the entrance that announces it to be the headquarters of the Delhi archaeological department. Inside, there is an archaeology museum in a state of neglect. The building is replete with architectural delights like exquisitely carved Mughal arches now concealed under white paint and archways in the rear of the building, which conjure up images of two distinct cultures. The textures used during the Mughal and British period are seen here. The museum, which has been in existence since 1993,has on display remnants like utensils and ornaments unearthed during excavations in Bhorgarh and Mandawali. Under dusty glass panels, one also finds late Harappan pottery, painted grey ware pottery, historic terracotta plaques, and ornaments like earnings and bangles. The library, which dates back to the 17th century, was originally used by Dara Shikoh, the liberal, intellectual eldest son of Mughal emperor Shahjahan. It was later occupied by Ali Mardan Khan, the subedar of Punjab. During the British rule, the complex was the first residency for Sir David Ochterlony. Lord Metcalfe also lived in this building. History tells us that Bishop Heber, the famous traveller, also stayed here. In the post-Independence period, it was occupied by a government school and the Delhi College of Engineering.

In 1988,the department of archaeology, Delhi, was located here. The building was damaged during the revolt of 1857.

The complex has undergone many changes since then. Even now, if one takes a round of the premises, it is easy to imagine the opulence in which the first British resident lived in Delhi.

The Statesman, 3rd February 2011

Not too long ago the business model of turning forts and palaces into lavish hotels begun taking firm roots in India. Delhi-based heritage management consultant Amita Baig — with half a heart — agrees, “It is one way of conserving our palaces” (“Bringing out postcards on them is another way”). But if given her way, it would rather be an elaborate book on the subject, she states. Something that she “can share with everybody.”

In fact, Baig, along with architect and photographer Joginder Singh, recently launched “Forts & Palaces of India”, published by Om Books. The 253-page coffee table book takes a peek at vestiges of royalty. Baig's introduction in the book succinctly strings different periods of Indian history — from Mohenjodaro to the colonial times. Says Baig, “I had a lot of fun doing the book; I didn't want it to be scholarly or of just academic value because India is not about didactic histories alone.” After being in the field of conservation for 25 years, she felt the need to put across to readers what she had learnt.

Baig and Singh have principally focused on forts. “We have covered a few palaces also because they are inside a fort,” she adds. The forts are classified according to their age. So the book opens with a little-known Kalinjar fort in Uttar Pradesh, a remnant of the Vedic era and where legends abound. Central to the sacred geography of Kalinjar is the Patal Ganga or underground Ganga that surfaces in a cave carved with sacred images, mentions the book.

Historic forts
Among the ancient forts are those of Bandavgarh with the Buddhi Talab, mentioned in the Mahabharata, Sisupalgarh (Bhubaneswar), Ranthambore and Bhatinda. There are also the Rajput forts, more familiar to readers. Then there are the Sultanate forts in Golconda, Kotla Feroz Shah, Bijapur and Daulatabad. Falaknuma Palace and Chaumuhalla Palace too find a place in this section. Delhi's Purana Quila and Lal Quila, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri form the Mughal segment. The Sikh forts include the Kapurthala fort.

However, the segment on Bundelkhand forts brings to fore a handful of little-known forts, such as the one in Datia, Samthar and Ajaigarh. The Samthar fort, “is one of the more ambitious fortifications built in the 17th Century.” Samthar was a powerful Gujjar kingdom when the Mughal Empire was disintegrating and the Marathas were gaining ground in Central India. There are pictures of intricate rock carvings in the Ajaigarh fort.

Edifices from Hampi, Padmanabhapuram, etc., are featured in the Southern fort section. Says Baig, “Padmanabhapuram was one of my best experiences; away from invasions, loot and pillage, this Travancore fort has some original paintings even today.” She adds , “There is no conservation work happening in the Maratha forts (covered later in the book).”;

Baig's book also covers the less exposed hill forts in Kangra, Nurpur and Basgo. The Eastern fort segment includes Ramnagar fort by the river Ganga, the majestic Tripura and Hazarduari forts and Burduwan Summer Palace. The book ends with a segment on such constructions by the Portuguese, French, Danish and the British..

With big colourful pictures complementing Baig's commentary, the book is a laudable effort. “The Archaeological Survey of India helped a lot, facilitated our visits to the forts.” Researching on the subject didn't take too long though. There is information out there, since I was not going into primary research I needed to only cross-check.” And to preserve the legacy, Baig comes up with a pertinent suggestion, “Our forts have to be invigorating, they can't be just static buildings. A way of introducing people to them would perhaps be to make them camp sites.”

The Hindu, 3rd February 2011

The Okhla Bird Sanctuary might have benefited a great deal from international cooperation had the government made efforts to have it classified as a Ramsar site. This tag for wetlands is equivalent to a UNESCO status for heritage sites. Okhla Park and Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary in Gurgaon are among the 135 possible Ramsar sites that were identified by the Mumbai Natural History Society in 2008.

India, which became a signatory in 1981, already has 25 Ramsar sites. The Ramsar convention was adopted in the Iranian city of the same name on February 2, 1971 and aimed at conservation, protection and correct use of wetlands through international cooperation. February 2 is observed as the International Wetlands Day. Dr Asad Rehmani, director BNHS, said: "We carried out a survey and identified 135 more sites in 2008. A list was submitted tor the government. However, it is the state government that is required to make a recommendation to the Wetland Committee of the Ministry of Environment and Forests before the site can be declared a Ramsar site."

Both Okhla and Sultanpur meet the convention's mandate of over 20,000 birds. There are eight criteria of which at least one needs to be met. Normally, if a Ramsar site fails to meet standards after a while, efforts are made to improve its conditions. Only in very rare cases has the site been removed from the list.

"Water pollution, dumping of waste and debris, reclamation and poaching are some of the major threats to wetlands and birds in India. If a wetland is designated a Ramsar site, no activity that is unnatural to wetlands is permitted. These include commercial exploitation, grazing and pollution," said Rehmani.

The Okhla Park's upkeep has been severely affected due to an ongoing territory battle between UP and Delhi. UP has notified the entire sanctuary while Delhi has been asking for denotification of its area so that it can prepare separate development plans for it. Sources said that while UP's side of the bird sanctuary was better maintained, Delhi's side towards Jamia was in a mess. This year, bird experts also reported a decline in the number of birds that visited the park due to poor maintenance. Among the 135 sites identified by BNHS, seven are in the Trans-Himalayan region, five in the Himalayas, 31 in the Gangetic Plains, 14 in the semi-arid region, five are from the desert region, 38 from Deccan, one from the Western Ghats, 20 from the northeast, 10 from coastal regions and three from the Islands region.

Times of India, 3rd February 2011

In a blow to conservation efforts, of the 629 water bodies identified by government agencies, as many as 232 cannot be revived for various reasons. A reply by Delhi's Urban Development department to a query by Vinod Jain under the Right to Information (RTI) Act provided a break-up of the status of 629 water bodies, along with one that was later added to the list under the Irrigation and Flood Control department (I&FC).

A majority of the 175 that cannot be revived come under the Delhi government's I&FC department, apart from 16 others, where legal disputes have prevented any work to be taken up.

Further, it mentions that 37 water bodies under Delhi Development Authority (DDA) and four under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) cannot be revived for various reasons.

"I needed to check the number of water bodies that have been revived and those that cannot be revived. After all, the authorities are putting in so much of money and time into it," said Jain, from NGO Tapas, who had filed a PIL in the Delhi High Court for the revival of Delhi's water bodies.

Explaining the reason for the failure to revive more than 200 water bodies, Rakesh Mehta, Delhi chief secretary said, "These have been urbanised. Hundreds of people stay there, how can you remove them?";

Is that reason enough? A case in point is the Satpula Lake near Khirkee village.

Said Naresh Chauhan, president of Khirkee residents' welfare association, "Debris is dumped onto the lake's bed. There is encroachment on the northern end. The authorities do nothing to stop it and then provide reasons."

However, there's still some reason to cheer.

"From the monitoring reports, it is clear that of the 387 water bodies that have been revived, about 80 have some water. In the rest of them, the recharge pits have enabled ground water recharge and hence, the water bodies have little or no water," Jain said. "Either way, this is good."

Hindustan Times, 3rd February 2011

Wattas takes a trip back in time on the Kalka-Shimla heritage rail track

As a boy I could play for hours with my toy train set. As the tiny chuffer and carriages trundled on tin tracks, looping the loop, vanishing into tunnels or stopping at a station, it fascinated me no end. The boyhood is long gone; yet the fascination remains.

The British during their rule in India developed a large network of railways to administer the vast subcontinent efficiently, including some of the awesome, engineering marvels in hill stations. Today these old-world trains — when time and the journey were never rushed —bring the romance of travel back into our hearts. A journey; where you savour the landscape, mingle with fellow travellers and feel the cool tingle of the mountain air, as it gets colder.

Ever since the 2’-6” narrow gauge, 96-km-long Kalka-Shimla railway was included in the Unesco World Heritage List on July 7, 2008, as part of the mountain railways of India site, it has acquired an even more special status among tourists.

The Kalka railway station (2,152 ft above sea level) has changed a lot over the years; yet its name still conjures magic; taking you to the regalia of the British Raj when the Viceroy and his entourage must have walked on the same platform to take the motorcar to ‘Simla’ and cherubic white schoolchildren prattled up and down the station, to board the train to their boarding schools..

Today, on a cold, wintery day, the station is bustling with mostly Indian tourists. There is a sprinkling of British tourists also, out to experience the timeless, quaint railway system built by their ancestors. The station is a cacophony of chai and pakora vendors, an ambience of yellow and black boards displaying time tables, and the age-old porters in their distinctively, bright red outfits - coming to life with announcements about departures and arrivals.

At the station we see the legendry royal ‘chariot’ of the Viceroys and Commanders-in-Chief — the rail motorcar. Painted in blue and white with elegant laced curtains and plush seats it is like a chauffeur-driven limousine on the rails.

Finally the toy train, with a royal sounding name, Himalayan Queen, chugs in. The cream and blue coaches, hauled by a bright-red diesel locomotive (the old steam chuffers now have been retired) promises an enjoyable journey with grand views through the large windows. Initially, the train snakes its way up slowly along the low foothills past the immediate industrial settlement of Parwanoo, the first settlement in the Himachal Pradesh, symbolising transition from the prosaic to the poetic landscape of the ‘abode of snows.’

As the altitude picks up, the air gets colder and a few hamlets and distant towns begun to appear as silhouettes on the horizon..

The cream and blue lissom train bends with the mountain curves, crosses the long ravines on beautiful stone viaducts — an awesome engineering feat inspired by stone-vaulted aqueducts of the Romans. We soon reach the Dharampur station. The small railway station, with its timber-frames and gabled roof, painted in sky blue and white colours blends with blue mountains and the clear expansive sky overhead. The quiet, tranquil settings of the place is both a remainder and reminder of the days of slow, easy travel; where the primary activity on the train would be a choice between reading a book or gazing out at the hills.

After Dharampur, the train gains height and limbers up to Barog, at nearly 5,000 feet before the dissent to Solan begins. Barog is preceded by a nearly one-mile-long (1143.61-metres) tunnel, the longest en-route to Shimla. And thereby hangs a tale, too..

According to a legend, the Barog station is named after the British engineer, who was working on the railway project. He started working on both ends of the tunnel at the same time, but the alignment was wrong and the two ends would not meet. Realising his folly, he was so full of remorse that he shot himself.

Soon, the train slinks out of the long tunnel into the bright daylight, on to the cosy little Barog railway station. Once upon a time, it was famous for its continental breakfast, served with white-glove service to the hungry sahibs, who boarded the early morning trains from Kalka. Even now, it is famous for its sumptuous breakfast and lunches, loaded from the station and served piping hot by waiters in the moving train.

After crossing Solan, famous for its breweries, from Kandaghat onwards a steep ascent starts up to Taradevi. And then suddenly after a sharp bend, the grand panorama of Shimla spreads out. Even from a great distance the silhouette of the Queen of Hills, though ageing and overcrowded now, is a sight to behold.

You know you are nearing your journey’s end when the train slinks through mighty deodars of Summer Hill. Finally, one last hoot before the tunnel number 103 and you steam into the curving railway platform of Shimla at 2,076 meters (6,811 ft) altitude after about five hours of a slow, languid journey.

At the station one can see the Unesco plaque that reads, “The Kalka Shimla Railway, a 96-km-long, single track working rail link built in the mid-19th century to provide a service to the highland town of Shimla, is emblematic of the technical and material efforts to disenclave mountain populations through the railway.”

The joys of this slow, languid journey that celebrates the old world charm of travel — tranquillity scoring over speed, are intangible but rich. As the train trundles on the rails put together on the formidable, arduous slopes of the Shivaliks more than 100 years ago, it’s a salute to both the men and the mountains. For great things happen when the two meet.

Feats and folkloree

• The railway was constructed by the Delhi-Ambala-Kalka Railway Company commencing in 1898. It was opened for traffic on November 9, 1903. The route has 864 bridges — besides one built with a 60-ft plate girder — all the rest are viaducts. Bridges Nos. 226 and 493 located near Sonwara and Kandaghat are built in multiple tiers with stone masonry, and historically known as the “Arch Galleries”.
• Even today, the Kalka-Shimla railway uses antique communication systems, including signalling lanterns, introduced by the British in the last century. Another quaint system is the Neals Token Instrument Systems used on the single line for controlling train movements, still in use on this rail section.
• After Mr Barog’s tragic death, the new chief engineer who succeeded him, Mr Harrington, requested a local saintly man from Jhaja, Bhalku, who was gifted with natural engineering skills, to help the engineers in the alignment of the route and in making various tunnels. Bhalku was honoured by the British for his assitance..
• Another living legend of the railway is Acharu Ram, a ninety-year-old porter who still works at the Shimla railway station. His services were brought to worldwide publicity by the BBC during a documentary aired recently on Channel Four.

The Tribune, 5th February 2011

As the countdown to the World Sparrow Day (WSD) on March 20 — a celebration of the much-cherished but fast-disappearing sparrow — begins, the Nature Forever Society (NFS) has decided to launch Project SOS: Save Our Sparrows by distributing 52,000 bird feeders to interested citizens, institutions and organisations across the country.

‘Unique programme'

Describing it as a unique functional conservation programme involving common people, India's well-known sparrow man Mohammed E. Dilawar of the NFS says the feeders, to be distributed free-of-cost in association with Burhani Foundation (India), could be installed in homes, open yards, balconies and even office premises.

The programme will be initiated on March 6. Feeders have proved to be the best medium of saving the diminutive bird, whose dwindling population, especially in cities, has become a cause of worry.
Besides distribution of feeders, the NFS has lined up a series of events to promote conservation of sparrows. Among them will be the BiodiverCity Photography Competition, to be held in collaboration with Bangalore Photography Workshops. Anyone can participate in this competition by sending to NFS pictures of common birds taken on a regular digital camera, SLRs and even mobile cameras.

Citizen groups will be encouraged to organise bird walks/watching trips, public discussions, presentations and impromptu events at society, school, college, locality and town levels. Events carried out across the world could be uploaded on a common WSD website.

Fight for biodiversity

Ours is a fight to conserve not just the diminishing sparrow count around the world, but to save all the common birds and biodiversity found in our immediate environment, which are often overlooked and abused by virtue of being too commonplace,” Mr. Dilawar said.

Another interesting feature of the WSD this year is to look beyond house sparrows and expand the celebrations to 26 species of sparrows found across the world.

Photos on website

In one of the firsts, NFS has acquired exclusive photographs and information on as many as 22 of the 26 species, which are now available on its dedicated interactive website: www.worldsparrowday.org

Building a network

“The idea of celebrating the WSD is to build a network of like-minded people, which will go a long way in carrying out advocacy and collaborative research in years to come to save the sparrows,” he added.

The Hindu, 5th February 2011

Mining will hurt biodiversity and discourage development of coal technology

If coal mining is allowed in heavily forested areas today, it could deprive the country of a strategic energy reserve for the future, according to the Environment Ministry. It would also go against the Forest Conservation Act, invite judicial intervention, hurt biodiversity and discourage the development of coal technology.

These are among the arsenal of arguments unsheathed by the Ministry to counter the Coal Ministry's complaints, even as a Group of Ministers gets set to resolve the tussle over the “Go, No-go” classification of coal blocks in forested areas. The classification of nine major coalfields was the result of a study conducted jointly by both Ministries, but the Coal Ministry now objects to the Environment Ministry using the classification to ultimately declare about 18 per cent of coal blocks in the area out of bounds for mining.

In its comments – a copy of which is available with The Hindu – on the Coal Ministry's draft note submitted to the Cabinet Committee on Infrastructure last month, the Environment Ministry points out that it has already made major compromises to its original position.

The original classification meant that of the 582 coal blocks surveyed, 68 per cent of blocks – comprising 57 per cent of the area – fell into the “Go” category. However, “on the request of the Ministry of Coal and advice from the Prime Minister's Office,” the classification was “re-examined.” Under the revised parameters, an additional 29 blocks were moved out the “No-go” category, while 24 more blocks had been granted permission for mining even before the study. Redefining boundaries allowed 28 more blocks to come into the “Go” category.

At the end of this exercise, only 105 blocks – that is, 18 per cent – comprising about 23 per cent of the total area will be considered out of bounds, the note points out, adding that coal from “Go” areas may anyway be “sufficient to meet current demand.”

Environment Minister Jairam Ramesh has been insistent that considering proposals in “No-go” areas was impossible as it would amount to a violation of the Forest Conservation Act.

However, the language of his Ministry's note indicates a possible softening of that position, with an admission that the classification was merely a “prioritisation” without any “legal enforcement/basis”. It adds that it has been “initially agreed that as of now,” the Ministry will not consider proposals in the “No-go” areas.

Open to considerations
This seems to mean that the Ministry is open to such considerations in the future. Indeed, the note argues that “it may be prudent to declare the coal available in [No-go] areas as the strategic energy reserve – to be utilised in the last resort to meet urgent safety and security needs of the country, in a scenario where all other fossil fuel reserves have already been exhausted and alternate sources of energy are either not available or are inadequate to meet bare minimum energy needs for the country.”

The note also warns that setting a precedent in the case of coal to allow mining in heavily forested areas, and effectively issue forest clearances for entire coal fields in toto, may “open the floodgates” with other Ministries and sectors demanding the same. This would cause irreparable damage to the forest and wildlife wealth of the country and defeat the very purpose of the Forest Conservation Act, warned the Environment Ministry.

The Hindu, 5th February 2011

Kanwarjit Singh Kang on Rani Durgavati, an epitome of courage and patron of art

"The bravest are surely those who have the clearest vision of what is before them, glory or danger alike, and yet notwithstanding, go out to meet it." - Thucydides (471 - 400 B.C.)

These are the words that can describe Rani Durgavati, who was born on October 5, 1524, in the family of Chandel Rajput emperor Keerat Rai at the fort of Kalanjar, near Banda, in Uttar Pradesh. Chandel Rajputs, who remained dominant in the Bundelkhand region, were famous as makers of the beautiful city of Khajuraho; and also for their valiant king Vidyadhar, who had repulsed the attacks of Mehmood Ghaznavi. Rani Durgavati’s further enhanced the glory of her ancestral tradition of courage and patronage of arts.

Married to Dalpatshah, the eldest son of king Sangramshah, she was blessed with a son, Vir Narayan. After her husband’s untimely death in 1548, Durgavati became the regent, as her son was a minor. For 16 years, she administered the kingdom most ably and benevolently. She was not only endowed with beauty and charm but was also a fine horsewoman and excellent shooter. Bestowed with the qualities of a commendable warrior, she led an army of 20,000 cavalry and 1000 elephants. Petty rulers bordering her kingdom paid their tributes to her regularly.

Sher Shah Suri had appointed Sujat Khan as Governor of Mandu. When Sujat Khan died in 1556, his son Bazbahadur succeeded him. After the death of Sher Shah Suri, Bazbahadur declared himself independent and attacked Rani Durgavati’s kingdom. She repulsed the attack, which led to heavy losses to Bazbahadur’s army, effectively silencing him.

Durgavati respected saints, intellectuals and scholars and extended her patronage to them. She welcomed the Vitthalnath of Vallabh community and took Diksha (a ceremonial observance undertaken with the purpose of raising one from the profane to the sacred level) from him. She engaged Padmanabha Misra to write a digest in seven volumes, named after her as Durgavati-prakasa.

However, only the first part could be completed and the project had to be given up due to her death. Besides various welfare activities, she built a number of lakes in her state to facilitate the irrigation of crops. In 1562, Akbar vanquished Bazbahadur. He, then, sent his forces under the command of Asaf Khan to subdue Rani Durgavati.

Pointing out the strength of Mughal forces, her advisers told her that resistance was a losing strategy. The queen, however, maintained that it was better to die respectfully than to live a disgraceful life and decided to defend her kingdom with all her might. Her sources permitted her to fight only a defensive battle and she went to Narrai situated between a hilly range on one side and two rivers Gaur and Narmada on the other. Thus, her forces were in no danger of being outflanked.
When, in the thick of the battle, Rani’s commander Arjun Daswas was killed, the gallant queen mounted her favourite elephant Sarman and, with a burnished lance in her hand, inspired her troops to fight to the finish. Her forces were about to repulse the enemy when two arrows struck her, one lodged in her neck, the other pierced her temple. She pulled out the arrows but lost consciousness. This demoralised her army. When she regained consciousness, she perceived that defeat was imminent and ordered her mahout to stab her. When he refused to do so, she killed herself with her dagger. It was the 24th day of June in 1564. The place where she fell in a narrow defile in the hills between Mandla and Jabalpur is still held in reverence. Passersby often place white crystals, in which the hills in this quarter abound, as votive offerings.

In her memory, the Government of Madhya Pradesh renamed the University of Jabalpur as Rani Durgavati Vishvavidyalaya. On June 24, 1988, the Indian Government paid a tribute to her by issuing her postage stamp.

The Rani Durgavati Museum at Jabalpur, dedicated to the great queen as her memorial, has a diverse collection of sculptures, inscriptions and prehistoric relics. On its second floor are preserved letters and photographs related to Mahatma Gandhi. The walls of the museum are embellished with murals illustrating themes related to India’s war of Independence fought from the 16th century. These murals were painted by acclaimed painter Beohar Rammanohar Sinha and his colleagues from Santiniketan.

Bards and ballad singers of Madhya Pradesh still conjure up images of bygone chivalry and heroism. They sing particularly of the daring Rani Durgavati, repeatedly stressing on her last words: "I am overcome in battle`85God forbid that I also be overcome in name and honour."

The Tribune, 6th February 2011

Recording the grandeur of one of South India's greatest monuments, the book is a pictorial tribute to the 1000-year-old Brihadishvara temple.

In the last week of September, Thanjavur was the place to be in for very special events to mark the consecration of the Brihadishvara Temple a millennium ago by the founder of the Chola dynasty, Rajaraja 1, King of Kings. The grandeur of the Temple, the greatest of Hindu South Indian monuments and a World Heritage site, was matched by the scale and exuberance of the celebrations.

Finer details

Seventy six superb Chola bronzes were on display and, judging by photographs, they alone were worth the trip to Thanjavur. The Nataraj, though shorn of his flying hair, was a stunner, with arched eyebrows, a half-smile, and his perfectly proportioned torso subtly suggesting the twists and turns of the divine dance. A chorus of 108 traditional singers rendered hymns in praise of Lord Shiva and at the spectacular climax, 1000 dancers played out the rhythms of the Bharatanatyam in the space around the Nandi shrine with the magnificent 216-ft. tall Vimana as a backdrop.

This aesthetic recall of a glorious era was a fitting tribute. As we know from the Marg book brought out to honour the occasion, the Chola monarch was a munificent patron, and the performing arts were an essential part of the life of the Temple. One can imagine it in its heyday with drumbeats reverberating as 48 singers, as opposed to 2 in the smaller shrines, chanted, 'How marvellous, how beautiful the form, bright as a hundred million rising suns…of the Lord…whose matted locks are crowned by the moon…'

Golden trumpets gifted to the Temple accompanied the deities when they were taken out in procession, and 400 dancers, as against 216 prescribed in the agamas, performed on special days, ‘lovely as young peahens, …their brows crinkled like flashes of lightning'.

Thanjavur was the Chola capital from 850 A.D. onwards but grew in importance after 985A.D. when Rajakesari became the king. Over 19 years he expanded his domain into an empire stretching from Kerala to Sri Lanka and the Maldives. Then, assuming the title of Rajaraja, he raised the Great Temple as a triumphalist monument in thanksgiving to Lord Shiva.

When his son and successor moved to his own new capital Thanjavur sank into obscurity, and was ruled in succession by the Pandyas and the Vijayanagara kings. Only when the Nayakas took over did it become once again the capital of Chola Nadu and a centre for literature and the arts.

From its inception the Temple was never a purely religious centre. It employed 850 people, ranging from high-ranking civil and military officers, to accountants and jewellers, all the way down the social scale to cooks, washermen, tailors, metal workers, artisans and so on. Its complex economy was supported by a meticulously planned network of goods and services sourced from 369 places in the Chola Empire.

To give random examples, villages endowed by the King provided watchmen for the Temple, and Brahmins invested its monetary assets to bring in a return of 12.5%. Further, selected herdsmen were given cattle to ensure that ghee was always available for the burning of sacred lamps, and a particular Sri Lankan village was singled out to provide the special iluppai oil required for religious rituals.

The Nayakas commissioned The Brihadishvara Mahatmya, a Sanskrit purana text, perpetuating the glory of the Temple and its great Chola builders in mythic rather than historic terms. Apart from 16 kings it told of Somavarma and his clairvoyant son who overcame innumerable obstacles to create the monumental structure. A poor old woman, a stock character in folk tales, did her bit by providing the enormous granite block that crowns the tower, and the Nandi is said to have kept growing larger and larger until a sculptor broke his thigh and released a toad trapped therein. Even today the local tourist guides tell these stories with gusto.

Speculation centres on how the granite block weighing several tons was hauled up to such a height. Was this an engineering marvel of which we know nothing, or was wet sand tamped down to form a long ramp up which elephants dragged the block with the help of ropes? The truth, alas, is more prosaic: no elephants, no ramp, no engineering marvel, and not even a granite block, but smaller stones suitably shaped and plastered together to form a single unit!

The Marathas who seized Thanjavur in 1647 undertook major restoration. The gilded kalash at the summit of the tower was replaced and the superb tableau covering its east face showing Shiva on Mount Kailash was probably added by them.

During the 18th and 19th centuries the armies of Arcot, the French, the East India Company and Hyder Ali came and went, leaving their mark on the Temple. Walled all around it was used as a fort and an arsenal, and the British garrisoned their troops inside while they fought off Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Like the Acropolis at Athens during the Turkish occupation when bombs were made in the Parthenon, it suffered extensive damage.

The nadir was reached in 1808 when the Survey of South India, in order to map the area, grossly insulted the deity by hoisting a half-ton theodolite to the top of the tower. It came crashing down causing extensive breakage, but the locals saw it as a just punishment for hubris.

Serfoji 11, the best known of the Bhosles, was a gifted polymath. Educated by a German missionary he was as interested in European art and architecture as in Hindu rituals, Puranas, and mythic and historical narratives. After the Cholas he was the first monarch to promote the Temple as a royal place of worship. The beautiful Subrahmanya shrine got a makeover, and the one to Ganapati was rebuilt. His gifts to the Temple exceeded the bounds of generosity and his lifelong dedication to it was legendary, yet in local lore he is reviled for surrendering much of his territory to the Company which confined him to the Tanjore Fort as they called it, creating a small kingdom within a larger one rather like the Vatican today.

This book is a work of solid scholarship with an impressive range of references. The appendices consist of a chronology of rulers, a brief constructional history, notes on conservation and the inscriptions, and translations of songs sung in the Temple over the ages. 100 pages are devoted to describing its physical features. Diagrams and superb photographs show that the complex was geometrically planned and executed with mathematical accuracy, what materials were used, and each detail of the architecture, statuary and painting.

Royal engravings

The huge murals in the main temple dating back to its inception are sadly defaced, but the grandeur of conception is still visible, particularly in the scene of angry Shiva with glaring eyes and open mouth, one arm upraised and body poised to slay the Tripura demons. The smaller murals in the Subrahmanya shrine are portraits of Maratha royalty, almost intact.

You cannot absorb this wealth of detail by reading about it. Better to take the genial advice proffered in the Foreword by Babaji Rajah Bhonsle, direct descendant of the Maratha rulers and hereditary trustee of the Temple: ‘Dear reader, if you have not visited the Temple…this volume will surely impel you….Even if you have already visited…,this volume will cause you to return…”. So, arm yourself with it and open your mind to envision the glorious past, and you will hear once again the drumbeats, and the chanting, and the ghungroosjingling as the dancers stamp and sway while you bow down to pay obeisance to Brihadishvara, Lord of the Great Temple that was also a little kingdom.

The Great Temple at Thanjavur: 1000 years; 1010-2010, George Michell and Indira Vishwanathan Peterson, Photographs by Bharath Ramamrutham, Marg Foundation, Rs. 2,500.

The Hindu, 6th February 2011

museum-cum-home in Goa shape-shifts on demand into a restaurant serving Portuguese fare.

The Goa You Don’t Know — a book bearing this title is not likely to have too many pages, given that there is precious little about the world’s favourite holiday spot that hasn’t been detailed, dissected and documented. But if one were to try and list some of the better kept secrets of the place, you’d do well to start with Palacio Do Deao — a place that is certainly not on the list of top 10 touristy things to do in Goa, but for those privy to its existence, it offers an exquisitely unusual experience of what was and, in most measure, still is the essence of Goa: history, culture, architecture and, of course, food.

It’s not easy to reach Palacio. A long winding road through the heart of Goa takes you to Quepem district, in the south. Here, you need to navigate your way carefully through the lush green fields punctuated with palm trees that without much warning shrink into a narrow less-trodden path with the river flowing rapidly on either side. From there on, while the vegetation gets denser, the population starts to perceptibly thin down, and just as you start wondering whether the promised Portuguese house would ever come, it suddenly emerges in front of you, like the early morning sun, in all its yellow and white brilliance.

While 100-year-old Portuguese houses are not uncommon in Goa, Palacio remains the only existing one with the ornate gardens that were once ubiquitous in Portuguese homes. And as Reuben and Celia Vasco da Gama welcome you into their home-cum-museum-cum-restaurant-on-order, their youthfulness, a trifle in contrast with the obvious weight of history in every corner of the 18th century 11,000 sq ft abode, you know you are entering a world far removed from quotidian life.

“When we bought this place in 2002, it was in ruins,” says Reuben, an engineer who also restored the 16th century Fort Tiracol in Goa. Restoring the Palacio was a labour of love, which he accomplished along with his wife Celia, a microbiologist. With their two children, they live in the sprawling place, and have the onerous task of preserving it. “The place was so unusual, and its artefacts and furniture pieces, so preciously ancient that we knew we just had to keep it the way it was meant to be originally,” says Reuben of his heritage home in Quepem, built in 1780 by Jose Paulo, the man who founded Quepem town. After his death, Palacio was occupied by a priest of the church, and then by nuns who ran it as a home for destitute women till it finally came into the hands of the present owners.

After buying the place, Reuben and Celia decided to go to Portugal where they studied the local architecture and gardens, and then returned to Goa to begin the three-year process of restoration. The most challenging part, perhaps, came from the two acres of terraced gardens, with each level representing a different geometrical design. “There are 228 geometrical designs in the garden,” says Reuben, as he leads the way up the steps to the chapel-like hall that gives way to the main hall. “Since it was occupied by a priest, there is no ball room here, as most large houses had in those days,” he says.

Instead, each of its 15 rooms contain gems, like a 130-year-old stamp collection that provides a graphic narrative of the 450 years of Portuguese rule in Goa, the chest of camphor that opens out into a desk, doors made of oyster shells instead of glass, ancient measuring systems of iron, and stolid wooden cupboards that open up to become toilets and basins.

The best part of the property, though, is probably the Belvadere — the large dining area at the back, overlooking the Kushvati river. “In the olden days, the river was the only way to access the house,” says Celia. “People would come here by boat.”

The deck-like area jutting out towards the river provided the Vasco Da Gamas with an ingenious idea to preserve the place. Since 2005, the couple has been playing host to small groups of people wanting to experience not just the Portuguese ambience, but also authentic Portuguese cuisine. “This is not a running restaurant. We cook only on order. People need to call up in advance and tell us when they are coming, and in what numbers. We then convert this Belvadere area into a dining section for them, and I cook authentic Portuguese cuisine,” says Celia.

Before the meal, the guests are taken around the house (that also functions as a museum for the public from Monday to Thursday, 10 am to 5 pm) even as its history is narrated by Reuben, who, by now, knows it like the back of his hand. After that, Celia takes over, with her kitchen dishing out the best of Rissois De Camarao (Portuguese Shrimp turnovers), Fofos de Queijo (cheese balls), boiled red rice, Goan mutton curry, pumpkin pie, bebinca and crème caramel. “I have seven people to help me I do the real cooking myself,” says Celia, who has honed her culinary skills to perfection over the years.

Taking in a minimum of four to a maximum of 100 guests at a time, Palacio has, over the years, become a favourite with famous Goans like Wendell Rodricks and Mario Miranda. “People get to know of us by word of mouth and we like to keep it that way,” says Reuben, who adds that Bollywood stars too have begun to visit them of late.

While meals here range from Rs 500-600 per head, there is no charge for those who simply want to walk around the museum. “We have a donation box, but it’s completely voluntary. Maintaining a place of this expanse with all its intricate furniture pieces and memorabilia is not easy —hence, these few steps to make the task easier for us,” says Reuben. “There’s not much money in what we do, but the satisfaction is huge,” says Celia.

Of course, over time, some contemporary changes have crept into the house, like a modern bathroom, a television set for the children, and a more efficient kitchen, but these have done little to take away the old-world charm that pervades the place.

“The only message we want to put across is that heritage everywhere needs to be preserved and promoted,” says Reuben, as he polishes a hundred-year-old metal piece, while Celia puts a chocolate cake into the oven, for her children and the group of eight expected that evening. Life as unusual for the Vasco da Gamas.

Indian Express, 6th February 2011

The mountain abode of Sikkim, with its misty hills, exquisite orchids, waterfalls, Buddhist monasteries, and not the least, the majestic Kanchenjunga peak ruling over the valleys, has retained its mystical beauty despite encroaching signs of development, writes Ranjita Biswas

In the last week of September, Thanjavur was the place to be in for very special events to mark the consecration of the Brihadishvara Temple a millennium ago by the founder of the Chola dynasty, Rajaraja 1, King of Kings. The grandeur of the Temple, the greatest of Hindu South Indian monuments and a World Heritage site, was matched by the scale and exuberance of the celebrations.

Sikkim and its capital Gangtok became alive all over again in my memory as I watched Satyajit Ray’s documentary with the eponymous name Sikkim. The documentary had been banned by the Indian government for 40 years. The film was commissioned by Chogyal (king) of Sikkim and his America-born wife Hope Cooke in 1971. In 1975, Sikkim merged with India. The change of guard created certain political controversy. Hence, perhaps the ban.

Controversy or not, Sikkim’s natural beauty retains the same magical quality even today. The misty hills, exquisite orchids, waterfalls, Buddhist monasteries, and not the least, the majestic Kanchenjunga peak ruling over the valleys have remained the same. Some changes, of course, are inevitable with increased population. I remember when I first went to Sikkim — that was in 1968, just before the great floods in Bengal when the Teesta flowing down from Sikkim changed its course — Gangtok was a small little town, and the air of a mountain abode evident. The king was still in the palace. The sloping roofs of the cottages were painted turquoise blue, said to be a sacred colour for the Tibetans.

The next time I went, Gangtok had started looking like an Indian town, with unbecoming concrete buildings, crowded streets, and well, lots of other changes. One could hardly see Tibetan women wearing the pangden(apron), over their traditional dress, and the turquoise blue roofs were also gone. But Sikkim still holds a different kind of charm among the hill stations of the country. It has a certain character setting it apart.

Walking around the town with the backdrop of the Ranipool river is a good idea to get the feel of the place. A must visit is the Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology. A majority of Sikkim’s Buddhists follow the Mahayana sect. This museum-cum-research centre is a treasure trove of artefacts, thangkas and manuscripts of the sect.

A day trip to Tsongo or Changu lake (height 12,470 ft) is another popular option. This road leads to Nathu La Pass at the international border with China. Due to its sensitive location, this sector had remained closed for a long time and was opened to tourists only in the recent past. The expert local drivers manoeuvre the jeeps very well round the hairpin bends and the scenery is astounding. In one of my trips there was an unexpected snowfall, even in summer — the Himalayas can surprise you at any time. There was a huge traffic jam, but the jawans from the nearby military outpost managed everything efficiently. It is advisable to carry some woollens even in the ‘season’. Last year, some tourists had a horrendous time because of the sudden turn of weather. Again the Army came to rescue and gave shelter and food tourists, who had to stay overnight.

For the soldiers as well as believers, Baba Harbhajan Singh Memorial Temple nearby is a must visit. The legend of the soldier-saint is growing by the year. Thirtyfive years ago, Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Punjab Regiment went missing while on duty. His body was found three days later but many soldiers reported that they dreamt of him often; apparently Singh instructed them to build a shrine there. Pilgrims believe he still makes a round every night and protects the people. Every year, he even goes on an annual leave to Kapurthala and a berth is reserved in his name, along with two escorts!

Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre, 24 km from Gangtok, is an extraordinary place to visit. It is the seat of the Karmapa sect of Buddhism. During the Losar (new year) festival falling in February, it hosts the famous mask dance. Monks, students in maroon robes smile cheerfully as visitors explore the beautiful Golden Stupa, which contains the relics of His Holiness, the 16th Karmapa, the Tibetan style decorations and soak in the atmosphere as the chants of the monks reverberate in the air.

The Nehru Botanical Garden on way to Rumtek can introduce you to many exotic plants, including orchids. With more than 500 indigenous varieties, Sikkim is known as the land of the orchids, and is also a bio-diversity hotspot. It is prohibited by law to take orchids from the Alpine region and other such rare plants. Cases of international bio-smugglers being arrested are not unheard of.

There are other nearby sites you visit from Gangtok. Yuksom, Pelling and Namchi are some of these places, which will never disappoint the mountain lovers and tourists who cherish pristine beauty.

Adventure sports lovers can have their fill with hang-gliding, hiking, river rafting, yak riding, et al.

Indeed, this land, the second smallest state in India, can never disappoint the wayfarer.

The Tribune, 6th February 2011

For years, Gol Gumbad at Lodhi Road was one of the many neglected monuments in the national Capital. However, courtesy 2010 Commonwealth Games, the 15th-century tomb today stands dazzling with a bright orange glow, says DIVYA KAUSHIK IN SEPTEMBER 2010, GOL GUMBAD GOT A NEW LOOK. THE 15TH CENTURY LODHI DYNASTY TOMB AT THE INTERSECTION OF LODHI ROAD AND LAL BAHADUR SHASTRI MARG HAS NOW BECOME ONE OF DELHI'S MUST-SEE MONUMENTS

The 2010 Commonwealth Games has done wonders to the national Capital. The sporting event has not only upgraded modern-day infrastructure that includes wider roads, swanky buses, state-of-the-art bus stops and traffic signals, but also revived ancient monuments. A case in point is Gol Gumbad, the Archaeological Survey of India-protected tomb that belongs to the Lodhi period and was built in the 15th century. It is located at the intersection of Lodhi Road and Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg.

“It was in April last year that we started the conservation work at the dome. While the city was getting a facelift for the Games, it was found that the dome was in a dilapidated state.

Being at a prime location (the tomb was on the way to the main Games’ venue, Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium), it was impossible to ignore it. So, we took up the project and started the renovation work immediately, ” informs Ajay Kumar, senior project manager, Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH)-Delhi Chapter. Intach undertook the restoration work as a part of an initiative by the Department of Archaeology, the Government of Delhi.

During the chemical cleaning of the monument, a small figurine carrying a sword atop an animal (that appeared like a horse) was discovered on the upper part of the tomb’s interior and graffiti. “The painted medallion was an important part of the walls and we highlighted it for the graffiti; art historians are trying to ascertain the date when they were done, ” says Kumar. The graffiti, too, lay hidden under piles of dust as rubble covered it all around.

Though there are no historical documents or data available about the monument, it is considered to be a part of the Lodhi architecture. “The term Gol Gumbad must have been coined keeping in mind the construction and many round structures the dome has, ” says Kumar.

He further adds that the monument was always in a bad shape and it worsened due to years of neglect. For protection, there was a mere grill around the building to prevent vandalism, but no work had ever been done before Intach took up the project. The fallen plaster, damaged and dampened walls, dust and garbage were the major things to focus on. Moreover, the tall grass, wild bushes and debris inside the tomb had to be removed.

“The renovation work precisely required three steps — cleaning up the rubble and dust, chemical cleaning of the dome and giving it the final shape.

The arcs and the round domes that

mark the architectural brilliance of that era were completely destroyed as there was no work done on the monument ever since it was built, ” shares Kumar.

To give a proper shape to the dome and its walls, lime mortar was used. “It is composed of lime, an aggregate of sand and water. It is one of the oldest known types of mortar that dates back to the 4th century BC. In fact, it was one of the most time-consuming parts of the entire conservation work. The plaster has now been done in such a manner that the monument bears the look of an ancient structure but appears maintained and can stand time, ” says Kumar.

Besides the interiors, the renovation work on the landscape was also important as the motive of the programme was the beautification of the monument. “There were a few illegal tea stalls that were running in the vicinity. The first challenge was to remove these along with the debris that was dumped by one and all. Special attention was paid on the landscape as it was very important from the tourism point of view, ” says he.

According to Kumar, though the monument is attracting a large number of tourists today, this wasn’t the sole aim of the entire project. “All we (at INTACH’s Delhi Chapter) wanted was
that more and more people know and recognise this dome as a major monument in the city and take pride in it.

Before renovation, there were several monuments inside Lodhi Gardens that were not noticed for years. It was only after this conservation work was done that people wanted to know more about them,” he adds.

After the restoration work, one will be amazed to see Gol Gumbad bathed in a bright orange glow after sunset. A row of tubelights fixed on the floor light up the cleaned up walls and the murals. “The dome was illuminated with bright orange lights and the dim lamps were fixed on the walls.

It is due to the lighting that the monument is considered a must-visit today.

A number of visitors throng it as soon as evening sets in, just to get a glimpse of the lit structure. It was only after the entire conservation work was done that the denizens have started recognising it,” says Nidhi Gupta, a regular visitor. “Such is the glow that people, very often, think the tomb is on fire,” she adds.

Today, it stands a well-maintained dome, proudly exhibiting its ancient murals, wall art and medallions. Such has been its restoration that Gol Gumbad has become one of the most talked-about monuments in Delhi.

The Pioneer, 6th February 2011

The city branch of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has completed the restoration of eight Santiniketan landmarks with funds granted by the Centre for Rabindranath Tagore’s 150th birth anniversary celebrations.

The work is part of an ongoing project covering 27 buildings and lakes that are part of the Tagore heritage. It started in 2007 but was dragging because of paucity of resources.

“The ASI had worked on the Konark building at Santiniketan in 2001-02. For the current project, we have had to scour the country for a wide range of materials and technical assistance,” said Tapanjyoti Baidya, superintendent archaeologist, ASI, Calcutta.

“The governments of India and Bangladesh feel four important sites connected with Tagore — Jorasanko, Santiniketan, the Kuthibaris at Shilaidah and Shahjadpur — should be part of a tour package. We are trying our best to restore and improve the heritage structures of the two sites here,” said Jawhar Sircar, the Union secretary for culture.

“Visva-Bharati had been seeking the ASI-protected monument status without realising how many restrictions come with the tag. So once the expert committee had identified the heritage zones, we suggested that the university instead engage the ASI in the conservation project,” Sircar explained.
Nearly Rs 4.8 crore granted by his department for “mural restoration and structural and horticultural conservation” has allowed the work on Santiniketan Griha, Glass Temple, Taladhwaja, Pampa Lake, Lily Pool, Chitrabhanu, Guhaghar, Parishista, Udichi, Dinantika, Dwija-Birama and Malancha to be completed. Santoshalaya, Pathabhavana, Dehali, Nandalal Bose’s Studio, Havel Hall, Sriniketan Fresco, Surul Kuthi (Kuthibari), Shyamali, and other structures are being restored now. The project is expected to be completed by next year.

“Santiniketan was the seat of an avant-garde architectural movement in the early 20th century. When the rest of the country was largely conforming to British colonial architectural prototypes, Tagore and his associates travelled extensively and drew inspiration from sources as varied as the ancient rock-cut architecture of the Buddhist period, mud dwellings of rural India, medieval Indo-Islamic architecture and Japanese and Far Eastern architecture,” said Udaya Narayana Singh, the pro-vice chancellor of Visva-Bharati.

Years of neglect, slipshod repairs and cleaning efforts had taken a toll on most of the structures. Several murals had received splashes of whitewash during sprucing up for celebrations, electric lines had been drawn across walls disregarding the damage to artworks, and lime-mortar and mud walls, like the ones in Taladhwaja, had been repaired with concrete, trapping in the damp. Plants and rubbish had overrun Pampa lake and lily pool.

Santiniketan Griha — the colonial-style residence of Maharshi Debendranath Tagore, built between 1858 and 1863 and used by various members of the family, including Rabindranath — had long and wide cracks on the walls, roof and floors. Pillars had become unstable.

“After assessing the damage, we took steps to strengthen the structure. Labourers skilled in working with traditional lime-sand-mortar were brought from Murshidabad. Fresh lime concrete prepared with herbal glues and waterproofing material like khayer were laid over fired clay tiles and beaten by hand for seven days to make the surface durable,” explained Baidya.

Glass Temple or Upasana Griha, built in 1890 and dedicated to the worship of Brahma, was also in a bad shape. Its walls comprise cast iron frames with coloured and decorative Belgian glass to allow light to enter from all sides and create patterns on the white marble floor. Rainwater was pouring in through cracks in the tiled roof, the marble floor and red sandstone verandah were damaged and several glass pieces were missing.

“Labourers from Surul and Labpur used herbal detergents to clean the intact tiles. We were lucky to find people who could reproduce the cast iron bits and identical clay tiles. We acquired Belgian glass and got slate tiles from a quarry in Andhra Pradesh,” said Baidya.

“To restore the walls of Taladhwaja, we mixed three kinds of mud from Malbhum Purulia with burnt banana skin, crushed tamarind seed, pottery, chopped jute, cowdung and other materials. Special straw for thatching was brought from Naihati. We used some transparent fibreglass to protect the structure from leaks,” said Sekhar Dutta, a senior conservation assistant in charge of the ongoing work.

The lily pool has been cleaned, restored and redecorated with foliage. The Pampa lake with its water-spouting fish was a tougher challenge. Those who had tried to restore it earlier, including a Japanese team, had failed but the ASI claims success.

“The project is important not only because it is Tagore’s 150th birth anniversary but also because Santiniketan has applied to Unesco for world heritage status and has to conform to its norms,” said Gautam Sengupta, director-general, ASI.

The Telegraph, 6th February 2011

Over two dozen heritage monuments and buildings, a recently amended archaeological act and the need for a public transport vis-à-vis Delhi metro. What will the government choose?

The question assumes importance after the recent announcement by the Delhi Metro Rail Corporation (DMRC) about

its proposed Central Secretariat-Kashmere Gate line.

The proposed line runs along a route that showcases more than two dozen-odd heritage monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and buildings including the World Heritage Site of Red Fort. The amendment in the archaeology law in March 2010, which bans any construction near protected heritage monuments, is likely to spark the heritage versus development debate once again.

DMRC's plan

The DMRC had submitted a detailed plan of the proposed alignment of the seven km long stretch to the ASI more than a month ago, "But we are yet to get any queries or objections from the ASI," said a senior DMRC officer.

In the proposed plan, DMRC claims it has tried to keep the track away from any heritage sites as much as possible.

"The corridor connecting Central Secretariat with Kashmere Gate will pass in the close vicinity of some heritage buildings including Jama Masjid, Lal Quila and Delhi Gate. But since the entire stretch is underground, we can lay the track without disturbing these sites," said Kumar Keshav, Delhi Metro's director (projects).

He, however, said that if the ASI has some objections or suggestions, the DMRC may make changes in the alignment plan. "We care for our heritage and will not undertake any construction at its cost. We are open to making some minor modifications in the plan, if at all required," Keshav added.

What is the ASI doing?

ASI director (monuments) AK Sinha said, "The entire project has to be examined keeping in view the locations/ distances and also the repercussions because of the provision of the amended Act. The superintending archaeologist (Delhi) has been asked to examine the proposal and offer his comments."

The Act that Sinha referred to is the Ancient Monuments and Ancient Sites and Remains (Amendment & Validation) Act 2010, which specifies a prohibited area of 100 metres around a protected monument in all directions.

ASI spokesperson Dr BR Mani says, "The amendment bans all construction activities in the prohibited area even by public bodies for public purposes, except for utilities. Even the government cannot do it."

Moreover, the amendment calls for the creation of a National Monument Authority (NMA), which will give permission for any construction after the competent authority from the concerned area weighs the proposal against monument-specific heritage byelaws and then forwards it to the NMA.

While the NMA is likely to be formed by mid-March, the heritage byelaws would take a long time.

Whither heritage?

Maintaining that since the entire stretch is underground, the DMRC can lay the entire track without disturbing any of the heritage sites, Keshav said the only heritage property that would be affected for the metro expansion is the Bahawalpur House in Mandi House—a small portion of this structure would be demolished.

The Bahawalpur House, the residential palace of the Maharaja of Bahawalpur, now houses the prestigious National School of Drama. It is not a protected heritage monument but figures in the list of notified heritage structures and buildings in the New Delhi Municipal Council (NDMC) area.

Amal Allana from NSD confirmed, "We have received a letter for the same from the DMRC."

Keshav added, "A small portion of the Bahawalpur House would be demolished without disturbing the functioning of the existing property. After about two years, when the new metro station will be built at Mandi house, we will rebuild the demolished portion immediately without changing the architectural design of the heritage building."

But the NSD doesn't like this idea. "The DMRC wants to pull down a portion of this heritage building and wants some land for the expansion of the existing structure. How can they demolish a heritage building?" fumes Anuradha Kapur, director (NSD).

The NSD has already been working on a development plan for the institution. This development plan includes addition of an auditorium, restoring heritage buildings, classrooms, studio spaces, workshops, administration spaces, audio-visual spaces, wardrobe rooms and space for rehearsals.

"We have been working on the plan for the last three years and made these plans in consultation with heritage consultants, School of Planning and Architecture. This will put our plans in jeopardy if the DMRC dug up our place."

The NSD has now written to the DMRC and the Ministry of Culture.

Experts decry plan

Archaeologists and historians are aghast at the thought.

Nayanjot Lahiri, Professor of History at Delhi University, who is also an authority on historical archaeology of India, said, "They can't. It would be shocking if within a year of bringing in the legislation, the government itself goes against it."

"I am given to believe that (Congress president) Sonia Gandhi was behind this legislation getting through. The Congress government should not go against it," Lahiri said.

Moreover, she pointed out, there is no clarity on the exact alignment, where the line is going from, so it needs to come in public domain.

Hindustan Times, 7th February 2011

Is the safety of heritage monuments in the Capital more important or expanding the Metro rail network in violation of the stringent rules of the Archeological Survey of India, which protects them?

This is the tough call the central and Delhi governments are expected to take when the Delhi Metro Railway Corporation (DMRC) presents a proposal to build a 7-km underground line running close to many heritage monuments, including the Red Fort.

The proposal is to be presented to the Planning Commission by the middle of this month. The extension is being proposed for the underground lines connecting Central Secretariat with Kashmere Gate via Janpath, Mandi House, ITO, Delhi Gate and Red Fort. “This should be treated as utility work and there should not be any major objections from ASI. Minor modifications can be made but there is hardly any scope to go for major changes in the proposed alignment,” said Kumar Keshav, director (projects) of DMRC.

"We tried to keep the line away from major heritage properties wherever possible. But in some places, the line might have gone close to them,” he said.

The ASI, however, has a different take on the issue. ASI director (monuments) AK Sinha said: “The entire stretch would be examined to see whether it violates the law.”

Extension of this metro line has become the need of the hour for several reasons including decongesting Rajiv Chowk by channelising Noida-bound traffic directly from Central Secretariat through Mandi House and making chaotic Old Delhi areas accessible to people.

Hindustan Times, 7th February 2011

I had an opportunity to visit the Indira Gandhi Memorial as a part of an educational trip organised by The Indian Express’. It had a great impact on me. Indira was born on November 19, 1917, into the highly political Nehru family. Because of insecurities during her childhood, she hardened herself and decided never to be hurt like her mother. She grew up at a time when the country was fighting for freedom from the British. After completing her studies in 1941, she returned to India and became involved in the Indian independence movement. In 1966, she became the Prime Minister of India. We are already aware of her achievements, but one thing I learnt from the visit was the way she led her life — with simplicity and boldness. Being the daughter of such a great personality, she could have easily opted for luxuries and comfort in life. But, instead, she chose to give her life to the people of India, so they could become free. The moment I entered the museum, I felt very good. The atmosphere inside the memorial was very inspiring. When I got to see her collection of books, I was left dumbfounded. I asked myself, “Have I read even a fourth of it?” and, obviously, the answer was “no”. I realised it was Indira Gandhi's hard work and clear-cut goals in life that helped her achieve her goals. That moment, I pledged that I would do something great to make my country feel proud of me. When we came out of the museum, I saw the place where Indira Gandhi breathed her last on October 31, 1984, and it brought tears to my eyes.

Kritika Kamra, XI

On January 27, we got an opportunity to visit the Indira Gandhi Memorial, which was once the residence of our late former prime minister. She was such a brave woman, somebody capable of inspiring every Indian. She was just 16 years old when her father was arrested. She first studied in the kindergarten section of the Modern High School in Delhi, after which she was sent to St Cecilia’s High School in Allahabad. Back then, nobody knew that one day, this simple woman would lead our country as its Prime minister. Though we visited all the rooms she lived in, my personal favourite was her study room. There were thousands of books, neatly stacked in shelves. After that, we saw prizes and medals which were kept in glass cases. Among them was the Bharat Ratna, awarded to her on January 26, 1971. Also, there were many photographs — reflecting her life like mirrors. At last, we reached the part of her past that brought tears to my eyes. On display were her clothes and footwear, which she was wearing at the time of her assassination on October 31, 1984. It was with a heavy heart that I finally left the place.

Ojasvita Muyal, XI

I visited the Indira Gandhi Memorial as part of a heritage walk organised by The Indian Express in collaboration with INTACH on January 27. I was very excited when I reached the Indira Gandhi Memorial.The memorial is situated at 1, Akbar Road. This is the same place where she was assassinated by her bodyguards on October 31,1984. Later, the house was converted into a museum. Besides her belongings, the museums also houses articles used by Rajiv Gandhi, her son. I am not prone to sentimental outbursts, but I was deeply moved when I saw the burnt clothes of Rajiv Gandhi. It was a very inspirational and thought-provoking visit.

Nitin, XI

On January 27, I visited the Indira Gandhi Memorial, which is located in New Delhi at 1, Safdarjung Road. Gandhi Memorial was the residence of the former Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi. Born on November 17,1917, in Allahabad, she was the third prime minister of the Republic of India for three consecutive terms — from 1966 to 1977, and for a fourth term from 1980 until her assassination in 1984. Indira's father was Jawaharlal Nehru and her mother was Kamla Nehru. The house is located in a lovely garden with lush green trees and flowering plants. It contains a collection of photographs documenting her life from childhood to her days as the prime minister. In addition to this, a number of rooms have been dedicated to her son Rajiv Gandhi, who assassinated in May 1991. Today, the study room, library and living room is kept exactly like how she had left them. From the trip, we got to see the beautiful place where Indira Gandhi lived and also gains some knowledge about her lifestyle and experiences. While coming out of the house, we reached the garden where Indira was shot. The stretch that she last walked has been enclosed in a glass-like frame, giving a rippling effect like that of a river. It is where her own bodyguards assassinated her on October 31, 1984. The visit was a truly enriching experience for me. I hope we get to participate in more such visits in the future, so we can learn more about our nation’s history.

Dhruv, XI

I want to share my experience of the visit to the Indira Gandhi Memorial, which is situated near Safdarjung Tomb. The visit, organised by The Indian Express in collaboration with INTACH, had a great impact on me. The museum has a beautiful collection of photographs covering the Nationalist Movement as well as the life of the Nehru-Gandhi family. Apart from photographs of Indira Gandhi, the museum also contains the personal exhibits of Rajiv Gandhi, including the clothes and shoes he wore when he was assassinated. Rajiv Gandhi became the youngest Prime Minister of India when he assumed office at the age of 40. In the initial stages, he remained aloof away from such matters despite his family’s political prominence. It was only after the death of his younger brother, Sanjay Gandhi, in 1980 that Rajiv entered politics. I was filled with the spirit of patriotism when I witnessed the sacrifices made by the Gandhi family. Seeing Rajiv’s burnt clothes was truly a heartrending experience.

Anubhav Tomar, XI

During our visit to the Indira Gandhi Memorial, located at Safdarjung, we gained a lot of knowledge about Indira Gandhi and her family. Indira Gandhi had moved into this white-coloured house after the death of her father, Jawaharlal Nehru, in 1964. On July 2, 1964, she was sworn in as the Information and Broadcasting Minister by then President Dr S Radhakrishnan. She was sworn in as the Prime Minister on July 24,1966. As we shuffled ahead, we saw many historical photographs and newspaper cuttings. Considering that the decision to nationalise banks and the ‘Garibi Hatao Programme’ were all implemented here, this house has had a significant impact on the nation’s history. Indira Gandhi, whose nickname was Indu, was a greatly influenced by Mahatma Gandhi. As her grandfather did not believe in gender discrimination, she was treated as an equal in family matters. At last, we got to see the place where Indira Gandhi was assassinated on October 31, 1984.

Pratul, XI

On January 27, we set out on a heritage walk to experience the contribution made by Indira Gandhi and her family to the development of India. Not only did the Indira Gandhi Memorial dazzle us, it also made us contemplate about how we could uplift our country in our own special ways. In this age of hate and conflicts, Indira Gandhi’s views are real eye-openers. The memorial encapsulated her journey from being innocent little Indu to becoming the country’s Prime Minister. It reflected different phases of the Gandhi family from her writing, personal collection and family albums. All the objects kept on display were once an intimate part of Indira Gandhi’s life. I thank The Indian Express and our school management for organising such a wonderful visit.

Anmol, XI-B

Indian Express, 7th February 2011